Not for every bath you can find a ready screen. Someone put it high, someone, on the contrary - low, there are still baths of non-standard sizes. In addition, not everyone wants to put plastic - there is no trust in the material or do not like it externally. In all these cases, you need to make a screen under the bath with your own hands or call a master. In any case, knowing how you can and should do everything will not hurt.
Materials and requirements for them
Screen for a bath with their own hands made from:
- galvanized profile, sheathed with sheet material:
- moisture resistant plasterboard;
- moisture resistant or laminated plywood with a thickness of at least 10 mm;
- GWL (a good choice, as it is absolutely not afraid of humidity and is not deformed);
- aerated concrete 50 mm thick;
- plastic panels and guides for their installation (this option is exclusively decorative, suitable only for cast iron or steel baths).
All these designs, except the last, need finishing finish. Most often it is porcelain stoneware or ceramic tiles, the same as laid on the walls of the bathroom.
The most common version of the homemade bath screen is made of profiles and plasterboard. To ensure that the structure is reliable and does not bend under loads, the profile must be taken with a thick wall, can be reinforced. Also a prerequisite is good quality of galvanizing. If possible, you need to take proprietary profiles, so that there will be no problems later - after all, in the bathroom, high humidity is the norm.
The sheet material for the frame must be moisture resistant. This is a prerequisite. And even in this case, before installation, it will not be prevented from priming it with a composition that increases the water repellent properties. Not bad, if this composition is also antibacterial - protection from mold and fungi does not hurt.
Brick screens are made mainly for acrylic baths - so that part of the load can be transferred to the brick wall. Although, if desired, the frame from the profile can be made with a sufficient load-bearing capacity - to make double reinforced struts.
If it is decided to make a screen under a bath of brick, it should be used ceramic, red. Silicate is better not to take because of its hygroscopicity. Ceramic brick is also hygroscopic, but its absorbing capacity is less. To minimize possible problems (coloring from high humidity), it is desirable to coat the inside with a layer of plaster. This is not easy, but it is possible, if desired, to apply the solution as the screen is erected. Special care is not required, the main thing is to protect the brick from moisture.
Another version of the screen for a bath that can be made by hand - made of aerated concrete. This material is easy to process. The required relief is formed easily, though with a sharp piece of iron, and the block is cut with an ordinary saw. For all that, the blocks have a good load-bearing capacity. So this material can also be used for a homemade screen for an acrylic bathroom. In addition, the blocks are large, so this small wall is folded very quickly.
Note! In the photo above, you see a block that was worked on one side. This is done to ensure that after laying the tiles, it was flush with the sides of the bathroom, rather than protruding outward. For the same purpose, during installation, the blocks are slightly inundated, leaving a gap equal to the thickness of the tile and tile adhesive.
In the photo, the master keeps the undercut part pointing down, but when stacking the block is turned over. In this position, an adhesive is applied to its lower part, which fixes the block to the floor. The glue is applied to one side edge and to the top. This ensures fixation with the side of the bath and the previous unit. The technology of manufacturing a screen for a bath of aerated concrete is simple, if there is any experience of masonry, you can do it.
It's about how you can make a screen under the bath with your hands so that it's functional, beautiful and comfortable. Everyone has his own ideas about convenience and beauty. Therefore, we will consider the possible options, and you yourself decide how you better do it.
With a wide edge or not
Sometimes around the bathroom make a wide side. It turns out as if it were inserted into the case. On the one hand it is convenient - you can put something on the side and from the aesthetic point of view the bath more harmoniously fits into the interior.
But not everyone can afford to allocate a large space. Bathrooms usually do not please their size and the extra 10-15 cm can be critical. In addition, this type of installation can be inconvenient for the elderly. To go into the bath, you have to take a big step, which is not always possible for them.
But this option has one more positive thing: under the bathroom you can make shelves of great width. They can be open or with sliding / swing doors.
Similar shelves do without a wide border, but their depth is much smaller. Although, maybe it's not a minus, but plus - less will be collected different things, it's easier to get something and clean.
To wash a bath or wash clothes in it is more convenient if the screen has a recess for the feet. Its depth can be small - 10-12 cm is enough, width - about 35-45 cm. Such dimensions allow to reach without tension the walls and the opposite side.
With dimensions determined, it's up to small - choose how it will look. The most simple in the organization is a square notch. It can be made of brick, aerated concrete and profile.
It looks more interesting non-standard variation - the whole screen is made of two levels, when the upper part hangs over the bottom (in the photo below). In this version, you can mount a moisture-resistant LED strip for lighting. It should be interesting.
The next option is to make a part of the screen tilted. In the case of the profile, this is easily realized - with a brick - it is almost impossible, with aerated concrete - it is possible, but difficult.
There is another option - to raise the top edge of the screen over the floor a few centimeters. It turns out on the legs and no problems with the place for the feet. But there are problems with cleaning. High veneer does not hurt - ugly, but if you leave a small gap, how to clean? Problem.
In general, of all these options, you can choose for yourself something that is most suitable, although they make a deaf flat screen in the floor.
The screen for the bath must necessarily have a removable / opening part, through which you can access the communications. There are several possibilities to do this. The first is to install a plastic hatch. Not everyone likes it, but it's the simplest and cheapest option.
The next option is to make a removable panel, which will be attached to the frame by magnets. Not to say that this option is difficult to implement, but requires more experience - it is necessary to calculate the installation location of the hatch so that whole tiles are placed on it.
One thing: if the seams are rubbed with a light paste, the hatch will still stand out. Tie grout in this place there, but there are small crevices, which on a light background are very noticeable.
The most technological, but also the most expensive way - to put special hatches for revision. They are of two kinds - hinged on chains and turning.
These hatches, in contrast to plastic, are designed for laying tiles on them. With a good installation and proper calculation, it is not easy to see.
How to make a screen under a bath with your own hands
Not always by the general appearance of the same screen you can guess how to do it. Those who have at least some experience in repair and construction work are likely to agree, but ordinary people are unlikely. To orientate it was easier, lay out a few photo reports on the production of homemade screens for bathroom of various types and types.
From profile and drywall
Making a screen under a plasterboard bath occurs in three stages: first the frame is assembled, then it is plastered with plasterboard, and then the tile is put on the glue.
The order of work is as follows:
- On the floor and walls make a markup.
- Cut pieces of the profile into sizes.
- Attach the lower guide from the PN 27 * 28 to the floor with dowels.
- Install the side strips from the PN 27 * 28. Height - from floor to edge. They are attached to the walls, mostly - dowels.
- From the profile PN27 * 28 cut a piece, equal to what lies on the floor. This piece will go under the side of the tub. It is supported by the previously installed side racks. The result is a frame. While it is fixed only on three sides. Above, nothing is fixed. We will fix it later.