Children dream of a bed at altitude and for the sake of it they agree to be reconciled even with inconveniences. The second attractive moment for them is the opportunity to make their own territory at the bottom. For parents, this option is attractive to rational use of the area. The only drawback of ready-made options is a solid price. An excellent way out is by loft bed with your own hands. First, the costs will be small, and secondly build exactly to their size.
What's the best thing about loft beds? That they are used with pleasure and children and adults. And children of any age - from toddlers who still go to kindergarten, to adolescents. With an adult audience a bit more complicated. Young people agree on the bed of the attic, older people no longer find delights in rest at the top. Nevertheless, the age spectrum is solid. All the models described below can be used for children and adolescents, as well as for adults. Everything is solved simply by changing the dimensions.
- 1 Homemade wooden bed-loft full width of the room
- 2 Photo-report 2: a loft bed for yourself
- 3 Drawings for self-production
Homemade wooden bed-loft full width of the room
In the narrow room of a teenager 2.5 meters wide it was decided to make a loft bed, at the bottom to put a ready chest of drawers and a cabinet with drawers. Because the bed attic with their own hands did on one side on the support boards, the good the bearing capacity of the walls allows.
We collect the frame
The height of the ceiling is large - almost 3 meters, the bed was decided to do about at an altitude of 2 meters - so that you could walk normally at the bottom. The walls were marked with markings - vertical lines, along which the upper edge of the support bars was leveled. These lines should be on the same level and be located strictly horizontally. The easiest way to do this is with the laser level (how to use it read here). If it does not exist, it will be necessary to align it with the help of a water one.
On one wall we nail just a board - there will be a cabinet, so just a base board fixed to the powerful anchor bolts.
To this board it will be necessary to fix the logs-cross-pieces. For their installation, mounting U-shaped staples are used. They are nailed to the board by nails in each hole.
The installation step is 50-60 cm, but depends on the thickness of the board that we will use for the flooring. The thinner the board, the more often it is necessary to put the supports.
On the opposite wall we collect the supporting structure here, we assume to make shelves, we collect a frame for them. The top board should be placed strictly on the same level with the opposite one.
We attach the boards to the dowels (brick wall), reinforce the joints with metal mounting plates, check the verticality and horizontality of each element. To the upper bar on the same level as on the contrary, we attach the supports to the logs of the flooring. They too should be located strictly in one plane. We put the beams cut into sizes on the supports.
In the side surfaces of the plates there are holes for fastening the fasteners. Use self-tapping screws for wood or nails of suitable length.
If everything is done correctly, all the logs will be horizontal. Also, we need to check that their upper edges are all in the same plane.
For the flooring, a dry planed grooved board is used. It is stacked across the log, fastened to self-tapping screws. The length of the screw - not less than triple the thickness of the board: under the board 20 mm - not less than 60 mm. Fasteners are installed in each lag (at least one, but with a wide board you can have two in each lag).
To ensure that there are no slots between the boards, take a kyanku, a small one - centimeters 50-60 - a piece of board, insert it into the groove or comb (which you get from the edge) and tap on it with a kyanite, achieving a dense entry of the board along the entire plane. Then you can fix it.
Construction of stairs
From a thick dry board, first cut out two bowstrings - sidewalls, to which the steps will be fastened. It is more convenient to climb, if there is at least a slight bias. To secure it, cut the ends of the boards at a slight angle. Once they are in place, mark the cutout, which will fix the bowstring in the desired position.
For a given height of the stairs, it was decided that seven steps would be normal. Separated the length of the bowstring into eight parts, received the attachment points of the steps. Now in all these points we draw a horizontal line (the bowstring is in the "working" position).
On this line we fill the steps. On each side we screw at least three screws per step. The length is also not less than three times the thickness of the board-bowstring. There is a second option for fixing the steps - to the corners. Maybe it's easier for you.
The last stage - the installation of handrails in the upper part - it is more convenient to keep (you can find it in stores selling furniture fittings).
The last step is to fix the ladder - to the sidewall and the floor.
Assembly of handrails
For the installation of racks in the extreme board we make cuts (according to the size of the bar used).
We mount racks of a handrail. They must be fastened to the lags, full width, for this, when cutting to the planned height of the rails, we add the height of the log. We fasten nails obliquely, hammering three nails from two sides. To hide the fastening, we nail a wide board into the butt. It is attached to the racks and does not fit closely. The existing gap is covered with a rounded strip (such as a skirting board).
From the same strip we make edging for the posts - joints are also imperfect. Saw off four pieces, joining them at an angle of 45 °.
We set up a figured bar at the top. The railing is ready.
Equipment working area under the bed-loft
Two or three (depending on the width) of relatively thin boards make the desktop. The joints are smeared with glue on wood, set for the night in a vice. After drying, the adhesive is ground to smoothness. First, a peel with a coarse grain, then with a thin one.
On the reverse side we screw the Z-shaped structure - for rigidity. Self-cutters take a small length - less than the total thickness of the table top and the bar - so that the points do not stick out. For reliability, you can glue the slats with glue, then tighten.
In the furniture store interesting folding loops are found, which allow you to lower, raise the countertop. Here they are and fasten it to the racks (the table top along the length is made just under them).
Above the table there will be a shelf. Immediately in place cut the boards of the required length - from one rack to the other. When sawing, the saw is held perpendicular, so that the saw is at 90 °. From the cut boards we shoot down a rectangle. To strictly withstand right angles we use the angular clamp. To connect details it is possible on nails or samorezy - who as has got used.
In the resulting frame, then set the shelves. During installation, all the time checking the horizontality.
The finished structure is put in place and secured to the racks.
Now it's polishing. Take a sanding machine and a lot of sandpaper and achieve a smooth surface. After removing dust, paint over if desired, stain, and on top - two layers of varnish (it is possible on a water basis, it does not stink). We chose a whitening compound - so it seems the structure is not so massive.
It's up to little to spread the bed.
Photo-report 2: a loft bed for yourself
This option is made of wood and plywood. The following materials were used:
- beams 50 * 150 mm, 50 * 100 mm;
- plywood 15 mm thick (1.5 sheets ordinary and 1 sheet laminated on one side), and 6 mm for boxes;
Drawing of the loft bed
A draft with dimensions was drawn up.
On one of the walls is a workplace, and the rest of the space will be fitted with cabinets for storing clothes and toys.
From the board 50 * 150 mm we cut three bowstring for the stairs - two shorter, one longer (for this variant 1 * 1900 mm, 2 * 1462 mm). To create the desired tilt, cut the end parts.
After every 25 cm we place the places for the installation of steps. If we take into account the thickness of the degree (5 cm), then we get the planned step of 30 cm. When marking, we keep the same slope as on the cuts, so it's more convenient to do this by placing strings.
Having prepared the required number of plates, we nail the steps. This project requires two different lengths - 400 mm for the part where there will be steps and 486 mm for the one where the shelves. The upper step is solid, its length is 962 mm. In the middle of the screws screw from the bottom, at an angle (not less than 3 pieces per stage), from the ends can be twisted just across the board.
While fastening the steps, expose their edge from the front side in the same plane with the edge of the posts (so that the steps do not protrude).
One part of the ladder is used as a shelf for books, the second will go up. To ensure that the books do not fall, we fix the walls of laminated plywood. First, we cut the plywood into pieces 250 * 486 mm (six pieces by the number of gaps) and strips 20 * 486 mm (also six).
Fasten first the strips to the steps. They serve as an emphasis. Then to them on the adhesive we mount the rear walls of the shelves.
On the extreme strings we cut out the folds. They are necessary for fixing the ladder to the bed frame.
All the notches from the fasteners and chips are covered with putty on the wood (you can add wood dust that has remained after cutting the wood - so the putty will not be visible at all). After it dries, everything is compared with sandpaper and hands or a grinder.
First we collect the frame from the board 50 * 100 mm. The following lengths are required for the frame: 2 * 2032 mm (side), 1200 mm (lath on the right), 2 * 964 mm - lintels, 362 mm and 162 mm for the protrusion. All we collect on self-tapping screws (three per connection).
We apply the obtained frame to the plywood sheet, cut to size. In the plywood and board we pre-drill the holes, and the screws will be put later - already on the mounted frame. The diameter of the drill is 1-2 mm smaller than the diameter of the screws.
All finished parts are painted. In this case, they are clarified. After the paint has dried, proceed to installation. Here, helpers are required. It is necessary to install the frame into the grooves cut out under it on the stairs, also it is required to keep the frame itself strictly horizontally. For temporary fastening, you can use nails.
When everything is exposed in the level, the frame is attached to the wall by the studs. At least 4 pieces on the long side and two on the short side.
In this project the rails have the form of clouds. First we make a template from cardboard - choose the shape, adjust the size. Around the template, cut the workpieces, grind the edges with a grinder.
We paint, then install it in place.
The second option with a bookshelf - for a boy
The project turned out to be successful and slightly modified, and made a second copy for the eldest son. For him, the bookshelves and the table were added at the side. The height has also changed - the boy is tall.
A few more variations on the same project in the photo gallery.