To ensure that the water from the roof does not wash away the foundation make the water disposal system. There are they from different materials more or less expensive, but as a whole, expenses turn out solid. It is possible to save a little if you collect the drain by yourself. On the features and order of installation and will go further.
Types of water disposal systems
The most famous and common weirs for the roof are galvanized metal. Let them not so attractive, as more modern variants, but are reliable and inexpensive. And this is important. What else is good - if you have the skill of a tinsmith, just by having "straight" hands, you can make a drain from your own by galvanizing yourself.
If we talk about other metal systems, then two of them belong to the category of elite - copper and from the alloy of zinc and titanium. They are certainly durable, but the price is very high. There is a more democratic option - metal drainage systems with polymer spraying. At a price they are quite accessible, in appearance - you will not reproach, on durability - depends on the manufacturer. With the observance of the technology, they will be many years old.
There is another type of drainage from the roof - from polymers. They normally tolerate ultraviolet light, frost and heat, are highly durable, look good. Disadvantage can be considered a rather high price, especially for European manufacturers. Nevertheless, there are good options in the category of low-cost systems.
The composition of drainage systems
Under the overhang of the roof are gutters. They are attached to special brackets that hold the system. Since the livnevka is located around the perimeter of the roof, there are corners - internal and external. All these elements must be sealed, for this there are connectors of the gutter with rubber seals. These elements are often considered superfluous. Then the gutters are laid overlapping with a setting of at least 30 cm, connected with self-tapping screws.
To drain water in the trough holes are made, into which funnels are inserted. To the funnels are attached drainpipes. If the roof overhang is large, it is required to make the pipe curved. For this, there are maples or universal rings (for some manufacturers). The drain pipe is attached to the wall of the house using special clamps, which have the same color as the whole system.
Of all these elements, a system of necessary configuration is assembled. If you decide to buy ready-made items, and then collect the drain by yourself, the best solution is to have a plan of a house with dimensions on your hands. On it you will quickly determine the composition of the system and calculate the required number of elements.
Most of the questions arise about fixing the brackets for the drain. At once it is necessary to tell, that they are established taking into account that gutters should have a small inclination towards funnels. The minimum recommended slope is 3 mm. If you want the water to drain faster, you can make it more - up to 10 mm.
If the length of the gable roof is less than 10 meters, the slope is made to one side. If more, or put in the middle of an additional funnel (and drainpipe) and to it form a drain, or the chute in the middle of the pediment has the highest point and the slope goes from the middle to both sides.
Mounting the drain with their own hands, they usually do this: nail the bracket at the highest point. Then nail the lowest - taking into account the planned bias. Between them stretched twine, which is attached to all the rest. One recommendation - before forming a slope, check the horizontality of the line to which you are targeting. Usually it is either a front (wind) board. Unfortunately, it is not always set perfectly in the level. So check up verticality, and it is desirable a hydro level or a level, on an extreme case the bubble, but the big length - not less than meter will approach also. For shorter lengths, you will not orient yourself.
Number of brackets and how to fix them
The number of brackets for the installation of the gutter is easy: the distance between the two adjacent ones should be 50-60 cm. The total length of the wall is divided by this distance. To the resulting digit, add one (the outer bracket) and get the required amount for one wall. Similarly, all the others are calculated. If the building has a non-linear shape, it is necessary to count one by one - the corner elements must be supported from two sides.
Now directly about the ways of fixing the brackets. There are three possibilities:
- Nailed to the roof rafters. The option is good, if the roofing material is not yet laid - there are no problems with the fasteners.
- Install on the windboard. If plastic outflows are selected, this is the only option. In other systems - one of the possible.
- To the extreme board of the flooring or flooring under the roofing material (if it is solid). This method is also used until the moment when the roofing material was laid.